Thursday, 19 September 2013

Train Hopping through Italy




Some of my favorite travel memoirs were of my first backpacking trip through Europe.  The summer before my last semester of University my sister Chanelle, and my best friend Catherine, suggested we pack our bags and venture out into the world of Europe.  I didn't need to be asked twice. 

Those two months could have easily been the highlight of my life.  Everyday was a new adventure, and I rarely slept because I was so full of excitement all of the time.  These next few posts are dedicated to the summer of 2011.  May they inspire you to grab a backpack and confront the wonders of the world...



While Chanelle and I were hanging out on the Beach in Marseille we were introduced to a crazy Italian gent named Luca.  Also an outdoor adventure junkie, Luca used to be a Burton sponsored competitive freestyle snowboarder before an unfortunate accident crushed his dreams of making it pro. It doesn’t take much for me to take a liking to someone, but with Luca’s striking Italian features and a stomach that is the definition of “washboard” abs, it was especially easy. The only difficulty we had was one of a language barrier.  Growing up in Brixen, a small ski resort town in the Alps of northern Italy, he speaks English just about as well as I speak Italian: Non lo facciate (I don’t). 
 

Luca

 

Desperate times call for creative measures, and the day took an interesting spin as we all got to know each other by playing Pictionary in the sand. It was ridiculous, half the time we just ended up laughing in utter confusion at our terrible drawings!  Fortunately I did manage to make out an invitation for us to come be his guests in his hometown.
 

 Luca was catching a train home the next morning, but he wouldn’t leave until he received confirmation that my sister Chanelle and I  would come visit so he could take us “extreme hiking” in the Alps. HELLO!  Is our last name Despins?!?  You had us at extreme!

 

 The next thing we knew we were catching the train to Northern Italy to stay with Luca in the most visually striking small Austrian town located in a lush valley at the base of one of the greatest mountain ranges in the world.   How do I get into these situations?

A castle 5 miles outside Brixen
                                      

                                             

I’m referring to this town as Austrian because although located in Italy, more than half of its inhabitants have emigrated there from Austria, and German has become its primary language.  Their annual Sommerfest happened to be taking place in the village the first night we arrived, and everyone from the town gathered under a huge canopy in a beautiful meadow, sporting the  traditional German attire of green capris suspenders for the gents and braided hair with “Little Bo Peep” dresses for the women…no joke.   We couldn’t stay long though because Luca said it gets quite rowdy as the sun goes down.

“You don’t drink Luca?” I asked.                                                                                
“Si, yes, 3 or 4, but them drink’in 14....15 maybe…and then, how you say...big fight!” he replied.

And were leaving!?!? How funny would it have been to see two German guys in wooden shoes and suspenders having a full out brawl next to the live polka music stage! Maybe next year….

 


Bubba
We made it back to Luca’s house just in time to meet his entire family.  Got to love those Italians, the most hospitable people in the world.  I’m not sure who exactly  lived in that house and who was just coming and going, but there was his parents, his grandmother (best cook in the world), his uncle and aunt, what seemed like 30 cousins, and their dog Bubba (who only understand commands in Italian and German).   None of Luca’s family spoke any English, so we were always in a constant state of dramatic sign language and charades, but ironically enough, 80 percent of the time we managed to get our point across. Who needs language when you can have theatrical performances all day?  I’ll give you a quick example of what makes the language barrier so wildly entertaining.

One night we were outside getting dinner ready when Luca comes up to me and says, “Lenai, you have fire on you.”

 
 “I DO?!? Where?!?”
 
 He looks confused, as I’m frantically looking to see if the back of my clothes had caught fire.

 “I need fire. I cook dinner...pollo,” he says.

Pollo...oh chicken!  “You mean do I have a LIGHTER on me to start the barbeque Luca?"

Dinner in the yard (Chanelle Luca and Bubba!)

 

The stream beside Lucas house




Strolling barefoot through the soft grass

 After a 7a.m. wake-up call the next morning, Chanelle Luca and I set off for what was indeed an extreme hike.  I probably should have taken into consideration the fact that I’ve been averaging 5 hours of sleep a night for the past month before agreeing to the 1000m vertical climb.  I think I was more afraid on the way to the mountain than I was climbing it.  Five minutes into the car ride Luca looks at me and says in his broken English, “You know, driving sometime make me nervous.”

You think? 
 
“Maybe it wouldn’t make you so nervous if you would stop passing gigantic trucks at 120 mph on these narrow winding passes.  You can’t drive down the mountain the same way you snowboard down it Luca.”


He of course doesn’t understand a word I said, but starts laughing anyway.  I think he simply laughs every time Chanelle or I say the word snowboard.

The hike we did that day was called Tre Cime di Lavaredo (The Three Peaks), and is the most famous hike in the region.  I could see why, because when I die I hope that’s what heaven looks like.  Enough of those silly English countryside rolling hills of the Lake District. Give me the most terrifying, overpowering, blood pumping mountain you can find. 



 
Chanelle's beautiful photography on the hike
 


Chanelle Luca and I near the Tre Cime di Lavaredo

                                                           



 
Luca and I

I find that when you travel there is a huge difference between seeing the culture and experiencing the culture. Over the past three days, Chanelle and I were so deeply absorbed in our Italian surrounding, we became the culture.  I made it a point to greet every hiker we passed with the local way of saying hello, “Gut”, in hopes they would confuse me for a local.  If on the off-chance they did say a short sentence of reply like, “Nice weather were having here” or any other statement longer than one word where I actually had no idea what they were saying, I’d just give them my heartiest laugh and continue up the trail.  At least that way they were less likely to assume I was a tourists (who have earned a fairly bad reputation in the area).  I can’t blame them because this is paradise. If I lived in heaven I’d be selfish with my land too.

 

Before we knew it, our 3 days had passed almost as quickly as they'd came. Chanelle and I found ourselves saying a teary goodbye to Luca, his charading family, and the amazingly scenic Alps.  I couldn’t help but wonder if language barrier is one of the main reason people don’t travel as much internationally as they should. If so, it’s a shame.  As human beings we are all programed with a universal language that all too often seems forgotten; self-expression.  What language do you laugh in, cry in, or love in?  If I had chosen to let arrogance get the better of me, and look the other way that morning on the beach in Marseille when I first met Luca because of something so trivial as not speaking the same language, I would have missed out on this entire amazing experience.  The best kind of travelling holds no room for fear or judgment.  

 

Chanelle at the train station in Brixen

 


Journaling on the Train back to Milan